Posts Tagged visitors

Two (Update: five!) new posts

Two [update: five!] new posts, thematically related again, almost coincidentally.

4 December – Brutality
22 January – What can be carried on the back of a bicycle?
10 February 2009 – The Greening
16 February – Minibus capers in Lilongwe
20 February 2009 – Guest blog post: Colin Dewar

More to come in the next few days, as I go on a week-long tour of southern Malawi on my motorbike, visiting Rob and other VSO’ers for the last time before flying to the UK on 4th March. Tomorrow is my last day of work, but more another time.

[ Update 26 Feb: After some motorbike problems which set me back a day, I leave for Blantyre in an hour or so. My bike was cutting out at random in town (including with Noel on the back, twice, embarrassingly) and I felt it would not be wise to risk a longer trip until it was fixed. Our neighbour here is a mechanic who has lived and worked in the UK, and he kindly took a look at the bike, and suggested that the fuel tap was open too much, thus flooding the carburettor. So we closed the tap a little, and the bike is purring along beautifully now. I took a spin up the plateau road to test it, and for a last look over the green plains around Zomba. It’s a pretty town, and small enough to start to know well even in six months, and I’ll be sad to leave it. Our house is almost opposite “Tasty Bites”, the most popular little cafe where most of the expats and volunteers turn up randomly for lunch or coffee. We can see who’s there from our gate. Walking into town, it is almost unusual not to meet someone and stop for a wee chat and confirm the next get-together. In the past two weeks, I’ve had the unsettling experience of hearing about dinners, parties and trips planned which no longer include me because I’ll be gone. Denise, who is living in Noel’s house as well, jokes that these enticing plans were one of the reasons she stayed on longer in Zomba after her VSO placement finished. But I must go. the experience here has been intense and challenging, chock-full of life and energy, and I am starting to feel a bit drained. Work has taught me enormously, about psychopathology, education, culture and how they interact; about how to work with and manage chaos; about how to continue even when they way isn’t clear; and about how to be patient (well, sometimes).

I do have concerns about my ward and the hospital, echoed by the two excellent nurses I mostly worked with. Sister Chimwemwe complained that there was no farewell party for me at the hospital, then she added sadly “but we have nothing to celebrate when you leave.” I apologised, “Pepani.” I’ve tried to prepare the nursing staff and new clinical officers for when I’m not there, but time has been short. In that sense I have been “gap-filling”, a taboo word in development circles as it suggests that you’re merely doing a job and not transferring skills. VSO is all about transferring skills and being “sustainable”. But I have argued that one absolutely needs to “do the job” in order to understand some of the real issues, and only with this understanding can one try to make a “sustainable” difference. So I’ve “done the job” – seen the patients – and it’s my hope that the nurses, CO’s and students who sat in with me have learnt something. I also tried to do a lot of teaching and explaining whenever possible. They say they’ve learnt a lot. In preparing to leave, I’ve slowly withdrawn from seeing many patients, and from running the ward rounds when I’m there. I’ve asked a nurse of clinical officer to do the interviewing themselves, with comments and guidance from me. This has partly worked, but I wish I had more time to spend with them. I felt an insidious desperateness creeping up on me as my last work day approached, and I think this may have been shared by the staff. But they are very stoical, and have not shown this explicitly. There may be a new VSO psychiatrist coming in June, and I hope to give a copy of my report and even discuss some ideas and challenges with them, so that they can get a bit of a head start. There are some things I would suggest to do differently, and some projects I’d try to implement which we’ve not done this time. New wards are being built, and more staff are slowly being attracted. The BSc in Mental Health program up at St John of God’s in Mzuzu (in the north) is exciting, as it allows CO’s to earn a degree on top of their Diploma. This is attractive for them, as it means more money and higher positions, and it is giving mental health some status. Already we’ve seen the first crop of these BSc students at the hospital (I’ve written about them here and elsewhere) and they are sure to contribute enormously after they graduate. I hope to visit again in a few years to see how things are coming along. ]

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Guest entry: Colin Dewar

Colin Dewar is a consultant psychiatrist and friend from Falkirk in Scotland, who came to visit recently for ten days. I asked him if he wanted to contribute to my blog, and I’m delighted to say that he agreed! A new person’s eyes and observations are always interesting and welcome.

When people say that Malawi is a beautiful country they don’t say whether for mountains, lakes or plains, even though it has all of these. My first impression was of greenness, much of it from maize that surges from the ground during the rainy season. There are a few trees left after deforestation, wherever the land is not cultivated, as on a few rocky hillocks where goats graze. P1040472

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Preparing for goodbyes

My time in Malawi is rapidly running out, with only four working days left! I can hardly believe it, and although time has flown, it also feels like I’ve been here a while as there has been so much happening, especially latterly. There is so much I would like to write about but probably never will, and even tonight the posts I’m putting up are a bit backdated… But I do hope that what I’ve written has given a bit of a flavour of what it’s been like to live and work here in Malawi.

New posts tonight:

1 November – ICT 2: We’re not alone
7 November – Motorbike Training
8 November – Are we doing anything useful here?
27 November – Sometimes I wish I could just stand and watch

February began with the arrival of Colin Dewar, a psychiatrist colleague and friend from Falkirk in Scotland, who came to see how psychiatry was done in Malawi. Colin stayed for just over a week and fitted into our busy house very well. His trip of ten days was short indeed, limited by the practical constraints of a fulltime NHS job, but we managed to pack a lot in!

The first weekend of Feb I visited Lake Malawi again, with the group of Scottish psychiatrists sent by SMMHEP to help with the annual teaching of psychiatry to medical students. All five psychiatric visitors are staying with Rob in Blantyre, his house now having become a bit of a commune. We all drove up to Cape Maclear (where I was for Christmas, almost) and shared a single large dorm room. Eight psychiatrists in a single dorm room works surprisingly well, but maybe only because they’re a fairly good-natured bunch. The Gecko Lounge at Cape Maclear was once again wonderfully relaxing, and Colin joined us on the first night straight off the airplane from freezing Scotland. I completed my PADI Open Water course, and Colin went snorkelling next to the island. Colin is a keeper of tropical fish back home in Scotland, so snorkelling amongst the brightly coloured (and expensive for collectors) Malawian cichlids was especially rewarding for him. His excitement was infectious and rewarding for me too.

P1040250_1Back at Zomba Mental Hospital, Colin joined me in ward rounds, and I found it very useful and instructive to have a fresh person’s view of what goes on. I am so often bewildered by the psychiatric presentations of patients in the hospital, and they appear so different from what I was used to in Scotland. So Colin’s comments and experienced ear were “most welcome”, as the Malawians say. I just wish he had visited earlier! Colin also took on a daily special task of tutoring the new Clinical Officers who have recently started working at the hospital. They are officially permanent staff, and they are “clinicians”, sorely needed and only just in time. I leave in a few days, and then my role will have to be taken by one of the new Clinical Officers. They do five weeks of psychiatry in their third (final) year, and that’s all. They are very keen but without any post-graduate psychiatric training. Our overlap at the hospital will be almost foP1040347-P1040348_1ur weeks – so very short! So I’ve been trying to focus my teaching efforts on any of the new CO’s I could find over the past three weeks, but haven’t had time for extra formal tutorials. Enter Colin (photo left)! He met with them (and sundry nursing and other students who wander in) every day, discussing psychiatric history taking, mental state examination and other basics. This is very valuable input, and gratifying for Colin as well I think.

P1040331_1   Colin dared to ride
  on the back of my
  bike to work some
  mornings!

  That’s our house in
  the background on
  the right.

P1040273_1 This is my favourite old lady in the market. She always has an energetic smile (except when photographed, apparently), and she takes delight in speaking Chichewa slowly to me. We have the same banter every time, and I usually buy her beans or ochra.

The final weekend we went up Mulanje, staying over in Chambe Hut on the plateau on Saturday evening. It was a big party – 15 in all I think – including the SMMHEP psychiatrists and Rob; Annie, Becca and Caroline (ABC – the English med students); Chris and Sameen (two new friends in Zomba); Noel and Denise (who is the third housemate now – moved in two weeks ago). The group worked very well, and I’ll put some photos up in the next day or two… I hope!

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   The Mulanje crowd at Chambe Hut.

Then on the Monday we had to say a sad goodbye to ABC, who’ve really livened our lives up here in Zomba over the past weeks. Noel and I will miss them, but I look forward to visiting them in London in March briefly. Tuesday morning saw Colin leaving early to catch a flight in Lilongwe later the same day. His was a brief but fairly intense visit, and I’ve enjoyed our discussions about natural history and psychiatry.

Which brings us up to last week. I’m sure there was some sort of party or dinner, but I can’t remember exactly which one now. I write this now, snatching a much-needed quiet evening to update my blog and catch up on some admin. I returned this morning from a little psychiatric outreach trip to Ntcheu District Hospital (invited by Ilona, a VSO doctor) and Bottom Hospital in Lilongwe (suggested by Felix at Zomba Mental), both trips doing some teaching and clinical work. I’d like to write about this trip, and it’s frustrations and modest successes, but I’ll leave it for another time. Now, I need to sleep!

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Parties at the NGO

Tonight there are two (update: three!) new entries, again with a common theme:

26 October – Mulanje Second Visit
16 November – Unexpected Dwangwa
26 December – Christmas at Cape Maclear… well, almost.

The social life at our house in the past two weeks has been absolutely mental, if I may indulge in the colloquial use of the word. Work has also been busy, settling DSC_0468into a rhythm of clinical work and some teaching which, although not excessive, nevertheless exhausts me on an almost daily basis. So that’s why I’m a bit behind on updating my blog! But some new entries tonight, hopefully getting them posted before yet another dinner party takes off here. I am loving it though.

DSC_0418Two weeks ago we met three final-year med students from London, Annie, Becca and Caroline (ABC), who are doing their elective here in Zomba. They’ve been great, and have amplified the already significant social life centred on Noel’s house, where I’m also living. We decided that the house was definitely an “organisation”, and strictly-speaking “non-governmental”, so we are an NGO. Conveniently, this also also stands for “Noel Gareth Organisation”! Movie nights (we occasionally get our hands on a projector), dinners, watching the US inauguration at the local hotel (first TV I’ve seen in four months) has kept us busy. Then the uncle of the previous volunteer living in the house, a friendly eccentric Canadian traveller, has been staying with us for a week while fetching and servicing his car in Zomba.

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Sophie, Danielle and Noel – The Three Australians singing bits of the national anthem Me and (a different) Danielle, who is fetching his car from our house to adventure through most of Africa.

And for the past four days we’ve had the pleasure of two Australian volunteers, Danielle and Sophie, friends of Noel’s, living here also, which obviously meant that we’d have a huge Australia Day party on Monday this week. The party was superb – I didn’t have to do anything, but we had a huge “barbie” with loads of meat (bless the Australians) and our smallish place was filled with 25 people. The people in an expat community like ours are generally outgoing and a bit eccentric, and the atmosphere was excellent.

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Danielle, Annie, Sophie
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Annie and Becca
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Noel with new haircut
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Annie and Sophie admiring.

Despite all this, my thoughts are turning more towards the end of my time here, and I am trying to tie up loose ends and consolidate what I’ve done. No new projects, no new tutorials from now on. Typing up and refining notes and activities for the few tutorials I have organised so far is a fairly time-consuming task, and it is my hope that these notes – tailored for a Malawian setting – will be used in the future by other doctors or nurse tutors. Newer projects which have recently started already are monthly or two-weekly visits to Chiradzulu District Hospital, Ntcheu District Hospital, and the psychiatry ward at Lilongwe Bwaira Hospital. There I’m meeting with psychiatric nurses and general clinical officers, trying to support them, encourage good practice, and identify and attempt to modify poor practice. The challenges are great though, and I’m not sure if I’m actually that effective.

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Caroline and Annie
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They made me do the braai again…

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Mulanje Second Visit

This weekend we climbed Mulanje again this time going to a different hut on the plateau. Here are a few photographs.

Cast:

  • Rob – often mentioned on my blog, good friend in Blantyre, lecturer in psychiatry at College of Medicine there, visits Zomba weekly
  • Sue – visiting consultant psychiatrist from Wales, living with us for one month, teaching Clinical Officers in the hospital.
  • Liv – UK doctor working in paediatrics in Blantyre for a year
  • Emily – UK medical student doing her elective, working with Liv
DSC_0017-DSC_0020 The walk up was very steep and very hot this time.
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Typical Mulanje views on the way up, during the dry season.

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On top of the mountain next to the hut.
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The plateau is full of trails and tracks. This explored in the afternoon.
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The three lovely ladies: Sue, Livvy, Emily

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Stunning view on the top: Elephants View
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Magnificent view on the way down.
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  Rob enjoys the view, though spoils it
  somewhat for the rest of us! He forgot I
  had my 18-200mm Nikon zoom lens…

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These little guys were very curious when we stopped for a break.

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At the bottom, Emily and maize fields waiting for the rain.
DSC_0218
  Kids on the way back. I had recently learnt some new Chichewa which I’d tried
  out with some success on the kids outside the Mental Hospital gates. I think
  it worked best here though. It went like this:
     (loads of curious kids come out to watch us stopped at roadside)
     I shout, smiling, “Mungathe kuvina? (Can you dance?)”
     There is bemused silence, followed by a tentative “Tingathe… (we can…)”
     I command loudly, “VINANI!  (DANCE!)”
     and they go wild gyrating and laughing – and I join in otherwise it’s not fair.
DSC_1002

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Liwonde

Friday evening at Mvuu Camp in Liwonde National Park, and I was hoping to prepare a basic supper for Sue and I in the communal self-catering kitchen. I decided to camp two nights, rather than staying only one night in the expensive chalets, and in order to save more money I planned to cook rather than eat in the restaurant. The woman on the phone had assured me, "Yes, there’s an old fashioned hob with four hot plates." DSC_0801 The stove was in fact really REALLY old fashioned, and required one to make and stoke a fire under it! So Sue and I went for the restaurant anyway, which turned out to be the Friday night "boma dinner", out in the open in the shelter of a wooden boma, with central fire, and traditional music and dancers. All very "African", and luxurious, the sort of thing my parents have been to but I’d only heard about. After dinner as we were leaving one of the waiters asked if he could escort us back to the tent. I confidently said no, I had a torch, and proudly waved by Petzl headtorch at him.

"Ah but what if you meet a wild animal? That is not big enough." He swung his massive torch spotlight into view, and I conceded that his light was stronger. (Still, he couldn’t wield it on his head, ha!) DSC_0818So we walked back to the camping area, sandy ground with thickets of thorn and other trees providing shade and some privacy. Earlier in the evening, when exploring the camp and putting up the tent, I startled some baboons, almost bumped into a solitary bushbuck, and photographed some warthogs, all wandering calmly about the campsite. The whole of Mvuu camp is open – that is, not enclosed by fences – and the wild animals can wander in and out at their leisure. Read the rest of this entry »

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Racism isn’t always bad

[This entry should really be read after reading the entry for 9 October Morning Jog. It’s a follow-up to that.]

A week after our first morning Jog, again early on a Wednesday, Sue and I set out again. It felt a bit different and a bit boring this time because it was a school holiday, so there were fewer kids about. We trundled along uneventfully, past the deserted school playground, past the airbase with a wave to the sentries, and up the gentle slope to the circle and the Muli kuti? Bar at the end of the road. As we rounded the circle, excited young shouts were heard in the distance.

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Zany psychiatrist

Shortly before I arrived here, one of the cell phone networks underwent a major rebranding, from Celtel to Zain. In a stroke of marketing genius, they chose a distinctive branding colour, and gave out free paint to anyone who asked, as well as the painters to splash it on. Paint being a bit of a luxury here, there were many takers, so the Zain purple (or is it pink?) has become The Colour of Malawi. Everywhere you go, you are reminded of Zain’s presence. And I have a shirt which is almost the same colour. (See if you can spot me camouflaged in one of the photo’s below. I’m in the photo with Sue, who visited as a guest lecturer in psychiatry in Zomba for a month.)

DSC_0251 DSC_0259 DSC_0280 DSC_0528 DSC_0546 P1030038 P1030226

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Morning Jog

Bouncing and bumping in hospital transport on our way to work this morning, we saw a sign suspended between two trees in the main street. Unexpectedly, it advertised a fun-run this coming weekend. P1020995 modified modified The idea of running for fun seems curiously out-of-place here, like a string quartet at a rugby match. I haven’t heard of, nor can I really imagine, people here having the luxury of enough time, money and concern for future health to invest in the effortful expenditure of excess energy. But Rob tells me that there is an active aerobics group and running club at the sports club in Blantyre, and we did read about the Zomba Walking Club in the local paper. (It has six members, one on crutches, but they all attend regularly.)

So this morning Sue and I went for a brief run, perhaps encouraged by the reminder of what is possible. Sue is a serious runner in the UK, and I find her in the kitchen stretching, wearing black and pink lycra. I’m in shorts and a long-sleeve T-shirt which I slept in. We’re not sure how people will react to seeing white people running, so my sleepiness is edged with a slight feeling of excitement and apprehension as we emerge from our gate and begin plodding down the road. Read the rest of this entry »

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