I hate the overnight flight from London to South Africa. The seats are small and uncomfortable, one doesn’t sleep, and one is stuck tight for 11 hours, legs stiff and feet swelling. I’ve made this flight many times now, but this time there was the odd tantalising sensation of being delivered so close to home in Cape Town, only to be rerouted back up to Lilongwe.
It was thus that I entered the arrivals hall of Jo’burg airport in an almost delirious haze from lack of sleep, exacerbated by the hangover effect from a belatedly effective sleeping tablet. Dumbly following an interminably long queue to get a boarding pass for the flight to Lilongwe, I was aware of entering a large stark hall, with only two bored clerks opposite, working behind a counter with place for eight. The only adornment to this ugly functional space was a daring abstract artwork on the opposite wall, its curving black and grey shapes breaking the surrounding monotony of straight lines and hard edges.
I desperately needed a strong coffee, but clearly the unhurried scanning, stamping and printing behind the counter meant I’d have to wait a long while. A portly Zimbabwean man wearing a cream jacket and a bowler hat and clutching a bottle of Famous Grouse asked me if I knew anything about past-life regression, going on to explain that Jesus was just a man. Not knowing whether the incoherence was his or mine I nodded politely. Read the rest of this entry »